Oklahoma Byways: The Osage Nation Heritage Trail

The Osage Nation Heritage Trail is identified as beginning at Ponca City and proceeding East along U.S. 60 through Pawhuska to Bartlesville. The Byway travels through the beautiful Osage Hills past historic landmarks, charming small towns, and natural wonderlands. Whether you are looking for a wonderful day trip or a multiday immersion, this Byway puts it all within reach.

For Osage culture please see their website: www.osagetribe.com. There they also have a font program available for download.

Black Gold Motel

544 Mathews

Pawhuska, OK 74056

918-287-3303

Holly Cottage

2100 Lynn

Pawhuska, OK 74056

918-287-3879

The Wah Zha Zhi House

414 E. 9th St.

Pawhuska, OK 74056

918-287-3736

Inn at Woodyard Farm

Lynn Ave

Pawhuska, OK 74056

918-287-2009

Economy Inn

415 W. Main Street

Pawhuska, Ok 74056

918-885-4465

Double N Motel

3537 E HWY 60

Ponca City, OK 74064

580-762-6331

Pawhuska

Triangle Building

The Triangle Building is a landmark for travelers of HWY 60. It occupies a triangular wedge of land that was once home to a large bandstand.

Blacksmith House

Built in 1872, the Blacksmith House was the first structure built in Pawhuska. The two-story, five room building is made of sandstone, typical of an early settler’s home in the area.

Cathedral of the Osage

The Immaculate Conception Catholic Church is unofficially referred to as the Cathedral of the Osage. The church was constructed from 1910-1915, but the windows, built by craftsmen in Munich, had to survive WWI before being shipped to Pawhuska in 1919.

Swinging Bridge

Recently re-planked, this venerable landmark has either thrilled or terrified every creek-crosser since the early days of Pawhuska. Kids love it, and those having issues with heights can watch from one end. It’s safe (high side rails), but it bounces, moves and swings when occupied. It’s just a couple of blocks south of downtown where Kihekah curves at Bird Creek. There is a small park across the street from the north entrance to the bridge.

Ponca City

Marland Mansion

E.W. Marland modeled his dream home after the Davanzati Palace in Florence, Italy. Breathtakingly beautiful, this palace on the prairie denotes incredible attention to detail with carved wood, sculptured stone, wrought iron arched doorways, Waterford crystal chandeliers and hand-painted and gold leaf ceilings. Today Marland's home and grounds are open for touring and still provide the backdrop for lavish galas, balls and festivals.

The grand Marland Estate Mansion, one of America's castles, is a showplace containing approximately 48,000 square feet spread over four floors complete with leather-lined elevator, 12 bathrooms, three kitchens, seven fireplaces and an elegant ballroom with 24-karat gold leaf-covered ceiling worth more than $1.4 million. The workmanship and beauty provide an aura of simplicity in grandeur, impossible to reproduce today. The mansion is a National Historical Landmark.

Marland's Grand Home

Marland's magnificent 22-room home on Grand Avenue had one of the first indoor swimming pools in the state and eight acres of formal gardens. Lydie and George, Marland’s adopted children, often entertained guests at the home. Visit Marland’s first home and see the Indian Museum, DAR Memorial room and 101 Ranch memorabilia.

101 Ranch Memorial

101 Ranch Memorial, a National Historic Landmark, is a picnic area commemorating the 101 Ranch that was home to the hundreds of participants in the famous 101 Wild West Show. This show, which traveled throughout the world in the 1920s, featured sharp shooters, trick riders, ropers and American Indians in full regalia.

The ranch stretched over four counties and covered 101,000 acres— hence the name— south of Ponca City in the early 1900s. The self-contained ranch had its own tannery, dairy, ice plant, electric power plant, cannery, cider mill and 25,000 longhorn steer. They even had their own money. The ranch was in operation for more than 50 years before splitting up into small farms in 1931. None of the buildings remain, but artifacts and memorabilia are viewable on the lower level of the Marland Grand Home.

Arts Center

The stately Soldani Mansion, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is home to the Ponca City Art Center and its many activities. These include artists’ exhibits, art classes, workshops and the annual Fine Arts Festival.

Anthony Godance Soldani built his dream home at a cost of $92,000. George J. Canon was the architect and the house was built by O.F. Keck. The green glazed roof tile was imported from France. Interior woodwork came from walnut trees on Soldani’s Osage County Ranch and was specially milled in Kansas City. Other features include tiled fireplaces from England and imported tile floors in the basement. One charming aspect of the house is the courting room tucked under the gracious staircase. In its prime, the Soldani house was a gathering place for the young people of Ponca City. Soldani died in 1956 and his wife passed away three years later. In 1966, the Ponca City Art Association purchased the home.

Centennial Plaza and City Hall

The Centennial Plaza, with its backdrop of Spanish Colonial Revival architecture, was started as a project for the Centennial year of 1893. It contains bricks engraved with the names of pioneers, descendants, organizations, supporters and others who helped make the project a success.

The brick plaza with more than 7,000 named bricks surrounds the DAR Memorial fountain and War Memorial tablet erected in 1925 by the Daughters of the American Revolution and the Centennial Statue sculpted by Jo Saylors.

Jo Davidson’s statue of E.W. Marland, completed in the late 1920s, was donated to the city after Marland’s death by his wife and erected on its present site in 1950.

Poncan Theatre

Built in 1927, this atmospheric theatre was the grandest in town. Live performances and silent features were accompanied by a Wurlitzer organ, two pianos and the Poncan Orchestra. It was really an experience to visit the Poncan Theatre to see such superstars as Ethel Barrymore and Will Rogers. Today, the Poncan has been restored to its original glory and special events are scheduled regularly.

Designed by the Boller Brothers of Kansas City, it was the fifth and grandest theatre in a town of 16,000 people. Several of the Boller Brothers' theatres, including the Poncan, are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. When constructed, the Poncan cost $280,000. It is one of the few surviving atmospheric theatres in the country. The Poncan was Spanish Colonial Revival in style and the interior was created to simulate an outdoor Mediterranean courtyard. By 1929, when it was apparent that the talkies were here to stay, the theatre was remodeled. The marquee was enlarged, seats replaced and a waterfall-type curtain replaced the original. The theatre was closed on October 11, 1985 after 58 years in operation. In 1989, a group was formed to restore and operate the Poncan. The grand reopening was held September 11, 1994.

Pioneer Woman Statue

Executed in 1929 by English-born sculptor Bryant Baker (1881-1970), the Pioneer Woman Statue is located at 14th Street and Highland Avenue, adjacent to the Pioneer Woman Museum in Ponca City. According to its dedicatory plaque, Pioneer Woman was created “in appreciation of the heroic character of the women who braved the dangers and endured the hardships incident to the daily life of the pioneer and homesteader in this country.” The 12,000-pound, 17 feet tall, cast-bronze statue stands atop a pyramidal, silverdale stone base. The entire presentation rises to 40 feet. Depicted is a woman holding a Bible under her arm leading her young son bravely and confidently into the future.

Ponca City Library

The Ponca City Library has been a cornerstone of the community since before statehood. In 1904, the women of the Twentieth Century Club organized the first public library in the back of an insurance office on Grand Avenue. Later in 1910, the city’s first library building was constructed on the corner of Fifth Street and Grand Avenue, through the generosity of Andrew Carnegie.

As Ponca City grew, so did the need for a larger library. In 1935, the city purchased additional land, with a grant from the Public Works Administration, to build an 18,000-square-foot facility in the previous library’s location. Another important milestone was marked in 1989 with the complete renovation of the building and a 10,000-square-foot addition. The 1989 addition respects the character and integrity of the older facility and was carefully planned to complement the grace and grandeur of the original structure. The buff brick masonry of the 1935 building was continued in the expansion, as are several of the distinctive features of the original architecture including the arches over the Grand Avenue entrance, the ornate terra cotta windows and the high ceilings.

Bartlesville

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Price Tower

Frank Lloyd Wright called this masterpiece the “tree that escaped the crowded forest” when he completed it for the H.C. Price International Pipeline Company in 1956. The Price Tower is Wright’s only built skyscraper. The combination apartment-office building received the American Institute of Architects 25 Year Award and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The Price Tower Arts Center offers a variety of traveling art exhibits and permanent exhibits on Wright, Bruce Goff and the Price Company and Tower.

Recent renovations by architect Wendy Evans Joseph have created an upscale 21-room boutique inn called Inn at Price Tower. With the creation of this inn, Wright enthusiasts can have the opportunity to stay overnight in a Frank Lloyd Wright building. Also on the premises is the Copper Restaurant + Bar, a fine dining experience for Bartlesville natives and visitors alike. Future plans for the Price Tower Arts Center include an expansion of their educational program. The Price Tower Arts Center has currently commissioned world-renowned architect Zaha Hadid to create the new complex that will adjoin the Price Tower, complementing the symmetrical design of Frank Lloyd Wright.

The Price Tower is an architectural jewel that attracts visitors from around the world, not only for the architecture, but also for its world-class exhibits.

1909 Santa Fe Engine and Hulah Santa Fe Depot

Johnstone Park is home to the only Santa Fe engine 940 series in existence. The 900-class/940 series were the first locomotives to burn fuel oil instead of coal and were synonymous with the Santa Fe engine. Built by Vulcain in 1903, this Santa Fe engine was originally a compound steam locomotive and was later converted to a simplified locomotive that could burn diesel. It has 2/10/2 wheels (2 pilot, 10 drivers and 2 trailing). Also to be seen at the park is the restored Hulah Santa Fe Depot (a #1 Santa Fe Depot), built in 1923. Both have been relocated to Johnstone Park as reminders of the important role each played in the development of the area.

Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe/ M-K-T Railroad Depot

Known as a Joint Agency Depot, this unusually large depot allowed other train agencies such as Katy Line to share the facility. It has been beautifully restored and currently houses the Bartlesville Area Chamber of Commerce, Convention and Visitors Bureau, Bartlesville Community Foundation, Bartlesville Development Corporation and the Visitor Information Center. Stop by for any additional information needed during your stay.

Bartlesville Community Center

The Bartlesville Community Center was designed by Wesley Peters, chief architect of Taliesin West–The Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation. Beautiful flowers, sheltering trees and a statue called Suspended Moment compliment the smooth curves, rounded lines and earth tone colors that make up the unusual architectural style. The exterior earth colors are continued inside the Community Center where you will find circular ramps leading to different levels and Crystalline light fixtures that are suspended like icicles from the meeting hall ceilings. An acoustically superb performance hall that seats more than 1,700 is the main focus of the Community Center considered to be “…one of the finest concert halls in this country,” said Ransom Wilson, Conductor of the Solisti New York Orchestra. Also found within is the world’s largest cloisonné artwork, a mural that is 25 feet long that depicts a stylized northeastern Oklahoma countryside. The Bartlesville Community Center is a wonderful tribute to the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation and a must-see for any architecture fan.

Bruce Goff’s Redeemer Lutheran Church Educational Building

Creative architecture best describes the Redeemer Lutheran Church Education Building* designed by well-known architect Bruce Goff. Goff designed the building to be bright, functional and appealing to children. The most outstanding feature of the building is the ears of glass cullet that rise above the front corners of the building. The aquamarine hue of the glass captivates the eye with its colorful beauty. Interspersed throughout the outer walls are the glass cullets set amongst the Ada stone. Large square windows are set at angles to form diamonds that flow with the design, allowing even the smallest child an open view of the outside world. Stepping into the glass-walled vestibule, a twin staircase rises up on both sides framing a mosaic artwork designed and handcrafted by Goff. White, black and sea foam green squares set at angles make up this unique design. The mosaic design is incorporated throughout the building. The second story opens into a small sanctuary surrounded by classrooms with green iron support rafters that have octagonal cutouts. Most amazing is the two feet of glass that divide the ceiling from the wall allowing light to flow throughout the rooms. Visitors can’t help but marvel at this creative display of combined natural art and architecture.
*In addition to this structure, Goff also designed eight private homes in the Bartlesville area.

Frank Phillips Home

Experience the sumptuous town residence of oil baron Frank Phillips, founder of Phillips Petroleum Company. Although the house itself is beautiful and ornate with rich imported Philippine mahogany, handcrafted molded ceilings and Waterford crystal chandeliers, it is the original furnishings left by the Phillips family that makes this tour an experience to remember.

Nestled among the family heirlooms you will find a painting by John Singer Sargent, a Tiffany lamp, unique turn-of-the-century jigsaw puzzles, exquisite handmade needle point chairs and ottoman coverings done by Jane Phillips. Preserved by the Oklahoma Historical Society, this National Register Historic Site reflects the lifestyle of one of Oklahoma's greatest oil barons.

The graceful lines of the neo-classical mansion were designed by Walton Everman, a local Bartlesville architect. The exterior design of the home was modeled after the Greek revival style with tall white columns that span two of the three stories. Spacious porches, mottled pink brick walls and a tiled roof with dormer windows add to the Grecian style. The corners of the brick walls were highlighted with flat blocks of white swan limestone creating a distinct pattern. The interior was crafted with beautiful Filipino mahogany wood used throughout the home for the paneling, staircase, banisters, crown molding and trim. Gold bathroom fixtures, Waterford crystal chandeliers and Tiffany lamps help to adorn this beautiful home. In 1930, the home was remodeled and enlarged by architect Edward Buehler Delk, creating a total of 26 rooms. The Oklahoma Historical Society preserves the Frank Phillips Home as it was during the lifetime of Frank Phillips and his wife Jane. The home is a testimony of the family life of one of the legends of the Oklahoma oil industry.

La Quinta Foster Mansion

The Foster Mansion was designed in 1930 by architect Edward Buehler Delk. H.V. Foster, once known as the wealthiest man west of the Mississippi, located his new home on 152 acres, three miles from the center of town. The 32-room, Spanish style mansion has 14 bathrooms and seven fireplaces. Construction was completed in 1932 and it served as the family home until Foster's death in 1939. After that time, La Quinta served consecutively as the home of a military school, Central Christian College and Central Pilgrim College. The Wesleyan Church now owns and operates Oklahoma Wesleyan University, a liberal arts college. La Quinta is the focal point of the campus and serves as the library and administration facilities for the school. La Quinta is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Hand-painted ceilings with octagonal and circular plaster molding encloses painted canvas designs by Italian artist, Sr. Guieleimo and can be seen in three of the mansions main rooms. Above the curved central stairway is a stained and painted glass window designed and executed by D’Ascenzo Studios of Philadelphia. The den or recreational room has a fireplace surrounded by beautiful mosaic tiles, which tell the story of the legendary Don Quixote, the main character of a novel by Cervantes in the early 1600s. A four-story tower provides a picturesque view of the surrounding countryside and the beautiful courtyards below, teeming with seasonal flowers. A fountain made of cantera stone taken from an old seabed in northern Mexico is the main focus for the rose garden in the central courtyard. La Quinta, which means country home in Spanish, is a beautiful asset to the Bartlesville community both for its rich historical value and for the visitors it attracts.

Nellie Johnstone #1
Visitors to historic Johnstone Park can enjoy viewing a replica of the Nellie Johnstone #1, the first commercial oil well drilled on April 15, 1897 in what is now the state of Oklahoma. The replica marks the spot of the original site. The Nellie Johnstone #1 gets its name from a young Delaware Indian maiden who owned the land on which the well was discovered. Currently there is a new Visitor's Center design that is an official project of the Oklahoma Centennial Commemoration and is funded in part through a grant made possible by the Oklahoma Legislature. The area will be called Discovery 1 Park. A new animated derrick will be the centerpiece for Discovery 1 Park.

Museums

Osage County

Gilcrease Museum

Tulsa’s Gilcrease Museum is one of the county’s best facilities for the preservation and study of American Indian art and history. The museum’s charm, beauty and art collections draw thousands of visitors from around the world to the hills just northwest of downtown Tulsa. Gilcrease Museum houses the world’s largest, most comprehensive collection of art and artifacts of the American West.

Osage County Historical Society Museum

The Osage County Historical Society Museum has five main exhibit areas: Boy Scouts, western life, pioneer life, early day oil industry, and Native American life. The Boy Scout troop centers around the first Boy Scout troop in the United States, which was founded in Pawhuska in the Spring of 1909. This troop preceded the organization of the Boy Scouts of America in 1910 and thus had a charter from the Boy Scouts of England. A statue of a Boy Scout in the British Uniform of 1909 is located in front of the museum.

Osage Tribal Museum

The Osage Tribal Museum is the “oldest tribally owned museum in the United States opening its doors in 1938”. Constructed in 1872, the museum is housed in a building finished with native Oklahoma sandstone. Today, the museum consists of two exhibition galleries and a collections/office area. Both galleries are also user-friendly for the physically handicapped.

Woolaroc Museum and Wildlife Preserve

Hidden away in the rugged Osage hills of Northeastern Oklahoma, Woolaroc was established in 1925 as the ranch retreat of oilman Frank Phillips. The ranch is a 3,700 acre wildlife preserve, home to many species of native and exotic wildlife, such as buffalo, elk and longhorn cattle. Woolaroc is also a museum with an outstanding collection of western art and artifacts. The complex also features a nature trail and two living history areas inviting you to experience the natural environment of Woolaroc.

Bigheart Museum

Named after prominent Osage Chief James Bigheart, the museum includes Cherokee and Osage artifacts and area history.

Ponca City

Standing Bear Park
A monumental tribute to all Native Americans is the 22-foot bronze statue of Ponca Chief Standing Bear, created by Cowboy Artist of America Oreland C. Joe. The monument of Standing Bear depicts his right hand extended to the east and his eyes overlook the ancient Arkansas River valley, where the original Chief Standing Bear is believed to have walked more than 100 years ago.

The 63-acre park encompasses more than eight fully developed acres that include off-street parking, a one-acre pond with central arrowhead island, a walking trail winding through native grasses and wildflowers to the monument site and a shaded memorial grove with a peaceful sitting area along the way.

A colorful 60-foot diameter circular viewing court is located at the feet of Standing Bear and contains large sandstone boulders around its parameter affixed with the official brass seals of the six area tribes; Osage, Pawnee, Otoe-Missouria Kaw, Tonkawa and Ponca. The names of eight clans of the Ponca Tribe are inlaid in the floor of the plaza in earth tone colors of terra cotta red, pine green and various shades of browns. A center pool reflects the sky and at its center the eternal flame of grandfather fire burns on a large round sandstone pedestal.

The published mission of the dedicated group is “To educate all nationalities about the Native American heritage and the important role Native Americans have played in developing our country’s diverse culture; To promote better understanding and communication among all our nations cultures; To increase economic and educational opportunities for Native Americans; and To provide a catalyst to enhance the self-worth of all Native Americans.”

The Standing Bear Museum and Education Center features tribal displays, traveling exhibits, artwork and other educational material.

Pioneer Woman Museum
The Pioneer Woman Museum was dedicated on September 16, 1958 at the 65th anniversary of the opening of the Cherokee Strip for settlement.

The museum houses exhibits of household furniture, equipment, costumes and memorabilia of family life in the pioneer era. Displays of old photographs, newspaper articles and flyers trace our heritage.
The newly expanded museum features exhibits of women who have made outstanding pioneering contributions in space, photography and medicine, as well as settling a new land.

Conoco Museum

Take a walk through Oklahoma's oil history in the new interactive museum. Films, hands-on activities and detailed visuals along with an extensive collection of artifacts, photographs and other historical items make this a must when you're in Ponca City.

Bartlesville

Bartlesville Area History Museum
Travel back in time to experience the growth and development of Bartlesville and surrounding areas. Through photographs and artifacts, learn about Indian Territory, the first commercial oil well in Oklahoma, the composer of the 12th Street Rag and many other people, places and events that shaped this turn-of-the-century settlement into the modern community it is today.

Biplane Museum – Biplane Center Frank Phillips Field
Exhibits of photographic and lithographic displays show the pictoral history of the biplane’s development and the Biplane Expo. Featured exhibitions are Jerry Poppenhouse’s photographic collection donated by Phillips Petroleum Company, Charles H. Hubbell’s lithographs depicting the evolution of the biplane and, of course, the actual biplane exhibit. Each year a series of different planes are loaned to the museum for the Expo weekend.

Phillips Petroleum Company Museum
Be inspired by the story of Phillips' transformation from a small Bartlesville business to a global energy enterprise, and the extraordinary people who made it happen. During your tour be sure to experience the thrill of Billy Parker flying overhead in an original 1914 Pusher plane and Phillips' breakthrough discovery that helped fuel the Hula Hoop craze. Observe how a roustabout lived in the rowdy days of the Burbank field and see an actual section of the Anna Anderson No. 1, the oil well that started it all.

Prairie Song Pioneer Village
The past is remembered and vividly alive at this recreated 1800s Pioneer Village Museum. The village features a two-story saloon, Scudder Schoolhouse, Wildwood Chapel, cowboy line shack, homestead cabin, post office, trading post, school marm's house, rock jail house, covered bridge and rock depot. Each structure was built with hand-hewn Arkansas bull pine and Missouri red and white oak. Prairie Song has been restocked with Texas longhorns, the original breed of cattle driven up the trail. Visitors can enjoy a glimpse of life from days gone by as they watch the longhorn cattle graze on the bluestem prairie that has never been touched by the steel plow. This life-like replica of a pioneer village stands in the midst of an authentic working ranch from the late 1800s and shows life, work and play as it was in those days.

Osage County

Tallgrass Prairie Preserve

The 39,000-arce Tallgrass Prairie Preserve is a truly awe-inspiring sight. The preserve is home to 2,400 bison and over 700 plant species. Large collections of other wildlife can also be observed and include: white-tailed deer, bobcats, coyotes, badgers, and greater prairie chickens. Enjoy taking the 35 mile scenic drive through the preserve. Two nature trails are also available for a closer inspection of the landscape. www.nature.org

Lakes

Various lake opportunities are available along the Osage Nation Heritage Trail Byway and include: Birch Lake; Bluestem Lake; Hulah Lake; Hominy Lake; Kaw Lake; Keystone Lake; Skiatook Lake; Pawhuska Lake

The Bivin Garden

Open from May-September on weekends or by appointment. www.bivingarden.com

Oklahoma Centennial Botanical Gardens

This work in progress will feature many diverse gardens, a nature trail, and host many gardening workshops. www.botanicalgardentulsa.org

Osage Hills State Park

Ponca City

Cann Memorial Garden

The Cann Memorial Garden is a 10-acre estate located in the heart of Ponca City. The estate was given to the City of Ponca City by Elsie Cann Brown, daughter of L. A. and Mary Cann in August 1975, in memory of her parents with the stipulation that it would be maintained as a memorial garden for use of the people of Ponca City.

A two-story farm house built in 1908 has been refurbished with a beautiful shaded patio area with more than 2,500 feet of brick walkways. There is also a formal garden containing several hundred varieties of annuals and perennials planted in unique color displays. There are more than 70 species of trees that have been planted since 1980.